Beginners Guide to Underwater Photography

Stephen Walton20 February 202412 mins
lady underwater holding a gopro camera

Underwater photography opens up an entirely new world, but water absorbs light and colour fast, so you need the right housing, lighting and technique. The keys are getting close, adding light, and shooting in clear, shallow water while you learn. Here’s a beginner’s guide to underwater photography.

Welcome to our in-depth guide on underwater photography, where we will plunge into the fascinating world beneath the waves. Capturing the beauty of aquatic life and submerged landscapes requires skill, specialised equipment, and a deep understanding of the underwater environment.

Whether you’re an experienced photographer or a beginner, this guide will equip you with the knowledge and techniques needed to take breathtaking underwater photos.

The Essentials of Underwater Photography

Underwater photography presents unique challenges, including water clarity, light diffusion, and buoyancy control. Understanding these factors is crucial for successful underwater shots.

The camera matters far less than what goes around it. The housing is the purchase that decides everything else, and it has to be made for your exact camera body: Ikelite and Sealife sit at the affordable end, Isotta, Aquatica and Sea & Sea in the middle, and Nauticam at the top. Whatever you buy, budget for servicing the O-rings and greasing them before every dive.

Ports screw onto the front of the housing and are chosen for the lens behind them. A dome port suits wide-angle and fisheye lenses and is what makes those big split-level shots possible; a flat port suits macro lenses. A dome on a macro lens, or a flat port on a fisheye, will disappoint you and there is no fixing it in software.

Lighting is the other half. Water strips colour with depth, so beyond three or four metres you are lighting the subject yourself or you are shooting blue. Strobes from Inon, Retra, Sea & Sea or Backscatter mount on articulated arms and clamps, and the arms matter as much as the strobes because moving the light away from the lens axis is what kills backscatter. Video lights are constant rather than flashed, which is easier to judge but far weaker.

Beyond that: a red filter for ambient-light work in blue water, wet lenses that clip on and off mid-dive to change from wide to macro, and enough weight and buoyancy control to hold yourself still without touching anything.

The housing shell for an underwater camera on the side of a swimming pool
Image: There are lots of different styles of dedicated underwater cameras or adaptive housing units to use your current camera in the sea
A man wearing full scuba diving gear underwater holding a large underwater camera with two lights either side
Image: There are lots of different styles of dedicated underwater cameras or adaptive housing units to use your current camera in the sea
A man taking a photo of a stingray underwater in scuba diving gear
Image: There are lots of different styles of dedicated underwater cameras or adaptive housing units to use your current camera in the sea
the shell of an underwater camera housing unit
Image: There are lots of different styles of dedicated underwater cameras or adaptive housing units to use your current camera in the sea
a man in scuba gear holding a camera in underwater housing taking photos of a coral reef
Image: There are lots of different styles of dedicated underwater cameras or adaptive housing units to use your current camera in the sea
A hand holding an underwater housing case for underwater photography
Image: There are lots of different styles of dedicated underwater cameras or adaptive housing units to use your current camera in the sea

Mastering Light and Colour

Light behaves differently underwater, and it is the thing that separates a flat blue snapshot from a photograph. Water absorbs colour in order of wavelength: red has largely gone by five metres, orange by ten, yellow by twenty, and what is left is the blue-green cast everyone recognises.

There are only two ways round it. Get closer, so there is less water between the lens and the subject – almost every underwater picture is improved by halving that distance. Or bring your own light, which is what strobes are for. A strobe within a metre of the subject puts back the reds and oranges the water took away.

Position the strobes wide, out on their arms and angled slightly outwards, so the edge of the beam lights the subject rather than the middle. Firing them straight down the lens axis lights every suspended particle between you and the subject, and that is backscatter: the snowstorm of white dots that ruins more underwater shots than anything else.

Shooting upwards helps too. Angling up puts the surface behind your subject, which gives you a clean blue background and lifts the subject off the reef.

A person in full scuba diving gear taking a photo of a fish with underwater camera in the Ocean

Step-by-Step: How to Colour Correct an Underwater Photo

Colour correcting a photo taken underwater is crucial to bring out the natural and vibrant colours that may be lost due to water’s filtering effects on light. Underwater environments can introduce a blue or green colour cast to your images, making them appear washed out or monochromatic. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to colour correct an underwater photo:

Shoot in RAW

Whenever possible, shoot your underwater photos in RAW format. RAW files retain more image data, allowing for more extensive adjustments during the colour correction process compared to JPEGs.

Use a Dedicated Underwater White Balance Setting

Many underwater cameras offer specific white balance presets for underwater shooting. These presets are designed to counteract the colour shifts caused by water. Select the appropriate preset for your dive conditions, such as “Tropical Water” or “Blue Water,” if available.

Fish swimming around coral reef
Fish swimming around coral reef

Start with Basic Adjustments

First, adjust the exposure to ensure that your photo is properly exposed. You can adjust the exposure using tools like exposure compensation in your camera or software like Adobe Lightroom.

Increase contrast and clarity to make your image pop. This will help to define the details and enhance the overall visual appeal.

Correct the Colour Cast

Now, let’s focus on correcting the colour cast introduced by the underwater environment.

Use the white balance tool in your photo editing software to remove the predominant colour cast. Click on an area in the image that should be neutral in colour, such as a white or grey surface. The software will adjust the colour temperature and tint accordingly.

Fine-tune the colours using the hue and saturation controls. Water absorbs red first and blue last, so an underwater frame arrives far too blue-green: lift the reds and oranges, and usually pull the blues and greens back rather than up. Be careful not to oversaturate, as it can lead to unrealistic-looking images.

Photo of fish swimming around a coral reef

Address Backscatter and Distortion

Underwater photos can suffer from backscatter (small particles or debris in the water) and distortion. To mitigate these issues:

Spot Healing or Clone Stamp: Use the spot healing brush or clone stamp tool to remove backscatter or other unwanted elements from the image carefully.

Lens Corrections: Lens correction profiles are measured in air, and water changes both the effective focal length and the distortion behind a dome or flat port, so no editor ships profiles for housings and ports. Correct any distortion by hand with the manual lens correction sliders instead.

Once you’re satisfied with the colour correction and overall image adjustments, save your edited photo in the desired format (e.g., JPEG or TIFF). Be sure to keep the original RAW file intact for future editing if needed.

Remember that underwater photography may require some trial and error, as lighting conditions, water clarity, and depth can vary significantly. With practice and experimentation, you’ll develop a better understanding of how to effectively colour correct your underwater photos to bring out their full potential.

A photo of a man taking a photo underwater using a mobile phone in an underwater case

Advanced Underwater Photography

Wrecks and caves are where underwater photography gets genuinely difficult, and both are training issues before they are photographic ones. Overhead environments need certification and a guide who knows the site; no photograph is worth going into one without them.

Wrecks reward the widest lens you own and patience with light. Shoot the whole structure from below and to one side so it stands against the surface, and let ambient light do the work on the far parts while a strobe picks out something in the foreground – a diver, a railing, a shoal – to give the scale a wreck otherwise loses.

Caves and caverns are about the shaft of light coming in from the entrance. Expose for that light rather than for the walls, keep a diver silhouetted in it, and accept that everything else will go dark. Long exposures are impractical, so this is one of the few times you will push ISO rather than fight it.

The other advanced technique worth learning is the split-level, or over-under, shot. That needs a large dome port, a narrow aperture to hold both halves in focus, calm water and considerable patience.

Learn how to tell compelling stories through your underwater images by experimenting with composition, perspective, and subject placement.

Download the iCAMERA eBook

Get started with your camera and we’ll also send you the latest photo guides and amazing deals straight to your inbox.

Already a member? Click here to login and download this eBook.

A lady in full scuba diving gear taking photos of coral reef with a gopro camera

What to Look for in an Underwater Camera

Before diving into our list of top underwater cameras, it’s essential to understand the key features and considerations when choosing the right camera for your underwater adventures.

One of the most critical aspects of an underwater camera is its ability to withstand water pressure and moisture. Some cameras come with built-in waterproofing, while others require housing to protect them underwater.

Image quality is paramount in underwater photography. Look for cameras with high-resolution sensors, excellent low-light performance, and the ability to capture vibrant colours in challenging underwater conditions.

Consider the lens options available for the camera, as well as compatibility with underwater lenses and filters. Versatility in lens choices can significantly impact the range of subjects you can photograph.

a camera dropped underwater

Top Digital Cameras for Underwater Photography

Now, let’s look at cameras that work well underwater. These have all been on sale for several years and most have been replaced – the Tough TG-6 by the OM System TG-7, the Nikon Z6 II by the Z6III, and the GoPro HERO10 by several later HEROs – so treat the list as a guide to the kinds of camera that suit the job, and check the current model of each before you buy.

Olympus Tough TG-6

The Olympus Tough TG-6 is a rugged compact camera designed for adventure, and it’s one of the most popular choices for underwater photography. With its waterproof and shockproof design, it can handle depths of up to 50 feet without additional housing. The TG-6 boasts a 12-megapixel sensor, 4x optical zoom, and the ability to shoot in RAW, allowing for excellent image quality and versatility.

Image of a red Olympus Tough TG-6 camera strapped down to a blue surfboard
Image: Olympus Tough TG-6

Sony RX100 VII

The Sony RX100 VII is a premium compact camera renowned for its exceptional image quality and performance. While it doesn’t have built-in waterproofing, it can be paired with underwater housing to dive to greater depths. With a 1-inch sensor, 20.1 megapixels, and advanced autofocus capabilities, it’s perfect for capturing stunning underwater scenes.

Image of a SONY series RX100 version VII camera on a white background
Image: SONY series RX100 version VII

Nikon Z6 II

For those looking to step up their underwater photography game, the Nikon Z6 II is a mirrorless camera that offers full-frame image quality and versatility. When paired with appropriate underwater housing, the Z6 II can dive to impressive depths. Its 24.5-megapixel sensor, excellent low-light performance, and wide range of compatible lenses make it a top choice for professional underwater photographers.

Image of a Nikon Z6 II camera on a white background
Image: Nikon Z6 II (version 2)

GoPro HERO10 Black

If you prefer a compact action camera for underwater adventures, the GoPro HERO10 Black is an excellent option. It’s designed for extreme conditions and can be submerged without housing. With 5.3K video recording, 23-megapixel photos, and advanced stabilisation, it’s perfect for capturing action-packed underwater moments.

image of a GoPro HERO 10 Black on a white background
Image: GoPro HERO 10 Black

Canon EOS 5D Mark IV

For serious underwater photographers seeking the best image quality and versatility, the Canon EOS 5D Mark IV is a top-tier choice. With a full-frame sensor, 30.4 megapixels, and a wide range of compatible lenses, it excels in capturing intricate details and vibrant colours underwater when paired with the right housing.

Image of Canon 5D Mark IV camera on a white background
Image: Canon 5D Mark IV

Underwater Photography: Final Words

Choosing the best digital camera for underwater photography involves considering your specific needs, budget, and preferences. The cameras mentioned in this guide offer a range of options suitable for beginners, enthusiasts, and professionals alike.

Remember that underwater photography also requires proper training and safety measures, so make sure to hone your skills and respect the underwater environment while capturing awe-inspiring images beneath the waves.

(iPhotography may make small commissions from links in this article.) 

For more, read our guide to flash photography.

Frequently Asked Questions

What equipment do I need for underwater photography?

A waterproof housing for your camera (or a rugged waterproof camera), and ideally an external strobe or video light to restore colour. A wide or macro lens suits the close distances involved.

Why do my underwater photos look blue or green?

Water absorbs warm colours quickly with depth, leaving a blue-green cast. Get close to your subject, add artificial light (a strobe), and correct white balance, shooting RAW helps a lot.

How do I get sharp, colourful underwater photos?

Get as close as you can (water reduces contrast and colour over distance), add light with a strobe, shoot in clear water and good conditions, and keep steady. Closeness is the single biggest factor.

Do I need a strobe for underwater photography?

For colour and detail beyond a few metres, yes, a strobe or video light restores the reds and oranges the water absorbs. In bright, shallow water you can manage with natural light.

Is underwater photography hard for beginners?

It has a learning curve (buoyancy, housings, light), but starting in clear, shallow water, snorkelling or a pool, and getting close to your subject makes it very approachable.

Table of Contents

Did you enjoy this article?

Related Articles

Milky Way Photography: Settings, Apps and Timing

Milky Way Photography: Settings, Apps and Timing

The settings, timing and free apps you need to photograph the Milky Way, even if you have never shot the night sky before.

Read More
Tilt-Shift Photography: The Miniature Effect Explained

Tilt-Shift Photography: The Miniature Effect Explained

How tilt-shift photography turns real streets and buildings into tiny toy-like models, with lens and editing methods for the miniature effect.

Read More
Splash Photography: How to Freeze Water in Motion

Splash Photography: How to Freeze Water in Motion

How to freeze water mid-splash with sharp, dramatic results — the shutter speeds, flash tricks and simple home setups that make it work.

Read More
Reflection Photography: Water, Glass and Mirror Tricks

Reflection Photography: Water, Glass and Mirror Tricks

How to shoot striking reflections using water, glass and mirrors, with the camera settings and composition tricks that make them sing.

Read More

Learn this properly — free

The 60 Second Photographer is our free course: 30 lessons, about 20 minutes in total. No camera jargon, no cost.

Start the free course See PLUS+