Switching to Affinity Photo from Photoshop or starting photo editing from scratch can feel daunting at first—but once you get to grips with layers, everything else starts falling into place. Layers are the backbone of non-destructive editing, and if you’re serious about improving your photography workflow, they’re well worth understanding.
When I first started using Affinity Photo, what impressed me most was how intuitive and flexible its layering system is.
From simple exposure adjustments to full-on creative composites, layers give you the control to make changes without damaging your original image. That freedom is a game-changer.
What Are Layers?
Think of layers like stacked sheets of glass—each one holds different parts of your image, and you can adjust, hide or blend them independently. In Affinity Photo, layers include pixel layers (your base image), adjustment layers, text, live filters, masks and groups.
What sets Affinity apart is its non-destructive approach. Every adjustment or effect can sit on its own layer, meaning you can always go back, tweak or delete without losing any part of your original image.
How to Create and Organise Layers
Let’s break down how to start working with layers in Affinity Photo:
1. Open Your Image
Go to File > Open and load a photo you want to edit.
2. Access the Layers Panel
If it’s not already visible, activate it via Window > Layers.
3. Add a New Pixel Layer
Click the ‘Add Pixel Layer’ icon at the bottom of the panel. This is a blank layer you can paint or retouch on.
4. Add Adjustment Layers
Click the ‘Adjustments’ icon to add brightness/contrast, curves, levels or colour balance layers. These can be toggled on/off and adjusted at any time.
5. Rename and Group Layers
Right-click on any layer to rename it. Drag and drop layers into groups to keep your project organised—especially helpful when working on complex composites.
💡 TIP: Use the shortcut ⌘/Ctrl + G to quickly group layers—perfect for tidying up complex edits.
Adjustment Layers vs Live Filters
Affinity Photo offers two distinct types of editing layers:
- Adjustment Layers: For global edits like exposure, saturation, and colour grading. These sit above your image and affect everything below.
- Live Filter Layers: For effects like Gaussian blur, sharpening, or vignetting that can be applied and edited in real time.
Both are completely non-destructive, and they stack neatly in your layer panel for full control.
Layer Masks: The Secret to Precision
Want to apply an edit to only part of your image? That’s where layer masks come in. They let you hide or reveal portions of a layer using black, white, and grey tones.
Here’s how I typically use them:
- Add a mask to an adjustment layer.
- Use a soft black brush to “paint out” the effect from areas I don’t want affected.
- Switch to white to bring it back.
This is especially useful for things like selective dodging and burning, sky replacements, or portrait retouching.
💡 TIP: Add a white or black mask to any layer to hide or reveal parts of it without deleting anything.
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Real-World Example: Editing a Landscape with Multiple Layers
Recently, I edited a coastal landscape using five layers:
- Base pixel layer with the original RAW image.
- Curves adjustment layer to boost contrast.
- Colour balance layer to cool down the shadows.
- Gradient map for colour grading with reduced opacity.
- Live Gaussian blur applied selectively to the sky using a layer mask.
Not only was the edit completely non-destructive, but I could go back a week later and adjust the sky without affecting the rest of the image. That’s the power of layers.
💡 TIP: If something looks off, check your layer order—sometimes a simple rearrange fixes the problem instantly.
Best Practices for Layer Workflow
- Label everything – Clear names help avoid confusion in big edits.
- Use groups – Combine related layers (e.g. all retouching or all colour adjustments).
- Duplicate layers before big changes – It gives you a fallback point.
- Experiment with blend modes – These control how layers interact visually. “Soft Light” and “Overlay” are great for contrast work.
A Few Pitfalls to Avoid
- Flattening too soon – Always keep your layers until the end, especially before exporting.
- Overstacking effects – Too many filters can cause your file to slow down or become over-edited.
- Not checking layer visibility – If something isn’t showing as expected, check your visibility toggles and masks.
Affinity Layers – Micro FAQ
Q: What’s the difference between pixel and adjustment layers?
A: Pixel layers hold image content; adjustment layers change how it looks.
Q: Can I edit adjustment layers later?
A: Yes—double-click to reopen and change settings.
Q: Why use layer groups?
A: They help keep your edits tidy and easier to manage.
Final Thoughts
Learning to work with layers in Affinity Photo is one of the biggest upgrades you can make to your editing workflow. It’s not just about power—it’s about flexibility, creativity and control. Once you get used to non-destructive editing, you’ll never want to go back.
So open a photo, create a few adjustment layers, and just start playing. The more you experiment, the more natural it becomes—and soon, you’ll be building edits like a pro.
