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Stephen Walton
Lunar photography is a captivating pursuit, offering photographers the chance to capture the intricate beauty of the Moon in its various phases and during special events like supermoons, blood moons, and lunar eclipses.
Whether you’re a seasoned photographer or just beginning to explore astrophotography, this guide will equip you with the knowledge and techniques needed to photograph the Moon in all its glory.
A supermoon occurs when a full moon coincides with the point in its orbit where it is closest to Earth, known as perigee.
During this event, the Moon can appear up to 14% larger and 30% brighter than when it is at its farthest point (apogee). This visually stunning event offers a rare opportunity to capture the Moon in unprecedented detail.
To capture the intricate details of the Moon, a DSLR or mirrorless camera with manual settings is essential. These cameras provide the flexibility to control exposure, focus, and ISO, allowing you to fine-tune your images.
If you’re interested in capturing extreme close-ups, shooting with a telescope in conjunction with your camera is an option. We’ll explore how to set this up later in the article.
A stable tripod is non-negotiable in lunar photography. The Moon is bright, but long focal lengths magnify any camera movement, making a sturdy tripod essential for sharp images. Consider using a tripod with a ball head for easy adjustments.
To avoid camera shake, which can be especially problematic at long focal lengths, use a remote shutter release or your camera’s built-in timer.
The choice of lens is crucial in lunar photography. For those without a telescope, a telephoto lens with a focal length of at least 200mm is recommended, though 400mm or longer will produce even more detailed shots.
Here are some lens options across different manufacturers:
> Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM: Known for its sharpness and versatility, this lens is ideal for capturing the Moon with impressive detail.
> Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 200-500mm f/5.6E ED VR: Offering a longer reach, this lens is perfect for those looking to capture the Moon’s surface in high resolution.
> Sony FE 200-600mm f/5.6-6.3 G OSS: Designed for Sony mirrorless cameras, this lens provides excellent optical performance and reach for lunar photography.
> Sigma 150-600mm f/5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary: A budget-friendly option that doesn’t compromise on image quality, making it a great choice for amateur astrophotographers.
The Moon is surprisingly bright, so start with a low ISO setting, typically around 100-200.
A low ISO minimises noise, ensuring your images are crisp and detailed. Higher ISO settings are generally unnecessary unless you’re including foreground elements in low light.
A small aperture, between F/8 and F/11, is ideal for lunar photography. This aperture range ensures that you capture a wide depth of field, keeping the entire lunar surface in sharp focus.
The reason for choosing this aperture range lies in the balance it strikes between sharpness and the amount of light entering the lens.
Shutter speed is perhaps the most crucial setting when photographing the Moon. A faster shutter speed, such as 1/125 to 1/250 of a second, is recommended.
This helps to freeze the motion of the Moon as it moves across the sky, preventing blur. If you’re using a longer lens or telescope, the Moon’s apparent motion becomes more pronounced, making a faster shutter speed even more critical.
The Moon’s colour can vary based on its position in the sky and atmospheric conditions. While auto-white balance often suffices, setting it manually to daylight or a slightly cooler colour temperature (around 4500K) can help bring out the natural tones of the lunar surface.
Even without a telescope, you can capture stunning images of the Moon using just your camera and a telephoto lens. Here’s how to make the most of your setup:
Find a location with minimal light pollution. Urban areas can wash out the night sky, reducing contrast and detail. The further you are from city lights, the better your chances of capturing a sharp and well-defined image of the Moon.
Consider including elements in the foreground to add context and scale to your images. Silhouettes of trees, mountains, or buildings can create a dramatic composition, especially during moonrise or moonset.
This technique works particularly well with wide-angle lenses, where the Moon appears smaller but the surrounding landscape provides a striking contrast.
Achieving precise focus is critical. Use your camera’s live view to zoom in on the Moon and manually adjust the focus until the details are sharp. Autofocus can struggle in low-light conditions, so manual focus is usually more reliable.
Since the Moon is much brighter than the surrounding sky, you may encounter difficulties in balancing exposure. Bracketing involves taking several shots at different exposure levels to ensure you capture the full range of detail. You can later blend these exposures in post-processing to create a well-balanced image.
For those looking to capture extreme close-ups of the lunar surface, combining a telescope with your camera is an excellent option.
This technique is known as “afocal” or “eyepiece projection” photography, where the camera is essentially looking through the telescope’s eyepiece.
Reflector telescopes, such as the Celestron NexStar 8SE or the Meade LX90, are popular choices among astrophotographers due to their large apertures and excellent light-gathering capabilities.
These telescopes provide high magnification, allowing you to capture the Moon’s craters, ridges, and maria in exquisite detail.
To attach your camera to a telescope, you’ll need a T-ring adapter specific to your camera’s brand, and a T-adapter that connects to the telescope. Once attached, your camera essentially becomes an extension of the telescope, using its optics to focus on the Moon.
When using a telescope, you may need to adjust your camera settings slightly. Since telescopes gather more light, you can often use a faster shutter speed, around 1/250th to 1/500th of a second, depending on the magnification.
Start with a low ISO, and increase it only if necessary to maintain proper exposure. Manual focus is a must, and using live view on your camera will help you fine-tune the focus.
As the Earth rotates, the Moon moves across the sky. High magnification makes this movement more apparent, so a motorised equatorial mount is beneficial for keeping the Moon centred in your frame during long exposure times.
This equipment is especially useful during lunar eclipses, where capturing the entire event in a sequence is desirable.
Supermoons are an ideal time for photographers without telescopes to capture the Moon in all its glory.
Due to its larger and brighter appearance, even a basic camera setup can yield stunning results. Here’s how to maximise your chances of getting that perfect shot:
Supermoons are most dramatic when they are close to the horizon. This effect, known as the “Moon illusion,” makes the Moon appear even larger when seen in relation to nearby objects. Plan to shoot at moonrise or moonset for the most impactful images. Use apps like PhotoPills to determine the exact timing and direction.
With the Moon appearing larger, this is a great time to experiment with creative compositions.
Look for opportunities to include natural or man-made elements in your shot, such as mountains, trees, or cityscapes. The juxtaposition of the massive supermoon with these elements can create a visually compelling image.
The brightness of the supermoon can make exposure tricky. Start by setting your camera to manual mode. Begin with an ISO of 100, an aperture of F/8, and a shutter speed of around 1/250th of a second.
Review your image and adjust the exposure as needed. Bracketing can also be helpful here, allowing you to blend multiple exposures in post-processing to capture both the bright Moon and any darker foreground elements.
Even though the Moon is brighter during a supermoon, a camera shake can still ruin an otherwise perfect shot.
Use a sturdy tripod, and consider using a remote shutter release or the camera’s built-in timer to reduce vibrations. If your camera has mirror lock-up, enabling this feature can further reduce shake when using DSLR cameras.
Once you’ve captured your lunar photos, post-processing is where you can really make them shine. Using software like Adobe Lightroom or Photoshop, you can enhance details, correct exposure, and reduce noise.
The Moon’s surface is full of intricate details, from craters to mountain ranges. To bring out these details, consider using the clarity and sharpness tools in Lightroom.
Be careful not to overdo it, as too much sharpening can introduce artefacts.
If your images appear too bright or dark, use the exposure slider to correct them. The contrast slider can also help to bring out the difference between the illuminated and shadowed parts of the Moon, adding depth to your images.
Even with careful settings, noise can still be an issue in lunar photography, especially at higher ISOs. Use the noise reduction tools in your editing software to clean up the image without losing too much detail.
Balance this carefully, as too much noise reduction can soften the image.
Lunar photography isn’t just limited to supermoons. Other events, such as blood moons and blue moons, offer unique challenges and opportunities for stunning images.
A Blue Moon is a rare event in the lunar calendar, but it’s not about the moon appearing blue. Instead, it refers to a specific occurrence in the lunar cycle. There are two types of Blue Moons:
Calendar Blue Moon: This is the most commonly known type and occurs when there are two full moons within a single calendar month. Normally, each month has one full moon, but occasionally, a second full moon sneaks in at the very end of the month, creating a “Blue Moon.” This happens about once every two to three years.
Seasonal Blue Moon: Less commonly mentioned, this type occurs when there are four full moons in a single season (spring, summer, fall, or winter) instead of the usual three. The third full moon in this sequence is called a Blue Moon.
Despite the name, Blue Moons do not typically have a distinct colour. However, under certain atmospheric conditions, such as after a volcanic eruption or a large forest fire, the Moon can appear bluish due to the scattering of red light by particles in the atmosphere. This phenomenon is unrelated to the Blue Moon event itself.
A Blood Moon is a term often used to describe the reddish appearance of the Moon during a total lunar eclipse. This occurs when the Earth passes directly between the Sun and the Moon, casting a shadow over the Moon. As the Earth’s shadow moves across the lunar surface, the Moon doesn’t go completely dark but instead takes on a reddish hue.
This reddish colour happens because of Rayleigh scattering—the same phenomenon that makes sunsets appear red. During a total lunar eclipse, the Earth’s atmosphere scatters shorter wavelengths of light (blue and green) and allows longer wavelengths (red and orange) to pass through and bend toward the Moon.
This filtered sunlight illuminates the Moon, giving it a coppery-red appearance, hence the term “Blood Moon.”
Blood Moons often attract a lot of attention because of their eerie and dramatic appearance. They are not rare events, occurring approximately once every 1-2 years, depending on your location. In some cultures and folklore, Blood Moons have been associated with omens and are often linked to prophecies, adding to their mystique.
Both Blue Moons and Blood Moons are popular targets for photographers due to their unique characteristics and the special conditions under which they appear.
The phase of the Moon when it is fully illuminated as seen from Earth. This occurs when the Earth is located between the Sun and the Moon. Full moons are the most common lunar event and are ideal for capturing detailed photos of the lunar surface.
The phase of the Moon when it is not visible from Earth because the side of the Moon that is illuminated by the Sun is facing away from us. New moons mark the start of the lunar cycle and are important for dark sky observations and astrophotography of deep-sky objects.
Description: The full moon occurs closest to the autumnal equinox, usually in September. The Harvest Moon is known for its warm, orange hue when it rises, and it provides more moonlight during the early evening, making it a popular event for both photography and folklore.
The first full moon of the year is typically in January. The Wolf Moon is associated with various cultural traditions and is a popular subject for photography due to its timing during the winter months when the air is often clearer.
The full moon in April is named after the pink phlox flowers that bloom in early spring. The Pink Moon doesn’t actually appear pink but is often celebrated as a sign of the arrival of spring, making it a favourite for seasonal photography.
The full moon in June was named by Native American tribes because it coincided with the strawberry harvesting season. The Strawberry Moon is popular for its seasonal significance and often has a golden hue, making it visually interesting to capture.
The first full moon follows the Harvest Moon, usually in October. The Hunter’s Moon traditionally provided extra light for hunters in the evening, and its timing and warm colour make it a popular target for autumnal photography.
The opposite of a supermoon, a micromoon occurs when a full moon coincides with the Moon’s apogee, the point in its orbit farthest from Earth, making it appear smaller and dimmer.
While less dramatic than a supermoon, micromoons offer a different perspective on lunar photography, emphasising the vastness of the sky around the Moon.
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